Thursday, 18 June 2026

The final piece to the AC puzzle

 The last push to finish the AC install.

Now that all the engine bay work is done. The next step is to replace the heater box.

Also, I have had a optional centre vertical piece that includes the oil pressure and water temp gauges along with an alternator gauge. As this car did not come with them from factory, I managed to source one locally and decided to install it while I had all the dash apart for the heater install.\

Here is the factory basic set up that I had installed after market gauges below the unit in front of the trans console. 


All ready to start work!

As I had already had the heater box out due to a failed heater core I had practice as to how to get the old unit out. Here is the old unit with all the dash parts removed and set aside.

Here is the firewall behind the the heater box ready for 6 new holes to be drilled for the various AC and heater pipes. The old ones will be filled with bungs. 

This fresh air port under the passenger side of the dash is covered up with a cover that is supplied with the system.

This is the engine bay side of the firewall prior to drilling.

This is the old vertical console removed.

Here is the old and the new vertical consoles.

The AC kit comes with a template to show where the holes needed to go. 3 of them are 25mm across.

After much gnashing of teeth with the ducting install, here is the system installed.
The vent in the top of the centre vertical console is new. The old vents to the left and right are then also reused. The new gauges were installed with new senders being fitted to the engine.

Final pictures of the engine bay once all the engine bay side wiring and plumbing was completed.


Here is the pipe work coming through the firewall


While I was at it, the charcoal canister needed to be repaired and repainted so did that while I was at it.




Next step is to get the system gassed with the new refrigerant. That happens this week.
All in all, took 3 days of solid work to do the heater box etc including extra cleaning and painting of parts etc.

Thursday, 4 June 2026

Best laid plans, when a part gets dropped, things snowball.

 The snowball effect.

Per the last post, I had painted the front of the engine and the engine bay. I had installed the AC pulleys in readiness for the power steering pump install after I had painted it.

Well, the power steering pump dropped from where I had hung it to dry and dropped about 1.5m meters to the timber deck and bent the pulley. I removed the pulley and tried to find a replacement and could not find the right size. I spoke with Tony from Active Power Steering and arranged to send the pump and pulley with the steering box to be serviced and rebuilt. 

Then then lead to deciding to replace the inner tie rods and the trailing link. I also decided it was time to replace the sump so planned to replace the sump.

As part of the work I cleaned all the parts and painted where needed.

Here are the progress pictures.

These are the tie rod end connecting rod's and clamps.

Rather dirty and crappy looking.


Nice and clean.
Progress of the polishing of parts using a high speed metal wheel.
Nice and clean

Cleaned the power steering pump bracket properly.

Lifted the engine and placed blocks between the engine mount parts to enable the sump to come out with out removing the engine.
The blocks installed between engine mounts

Ready for sump removal.


Sump removal.

That was easier than expected as some info suggested that the oil pump needed to be removed in order to clear the oil pump pickup.
A bit of sludge in the bottom of the sump but not too bad.


The bottom of the engine from underneath. The piston skirts and bores look good for a car that has done 120,000 miles.
At this point, I reached up and checked the timing chain and it was very warn.
Time to replace the timing chain. So time to remove the water pump and timing chain cover.
Water pump and timing chain cover removed.
Here is the back of the water pump. This is not an original water pump as the original ones have a cast impeller. But this one is fine so a quick clean up and reinstall.
The timing chain cover looks ok. So a quick clean and repaint.



This is the timing mark with bracket.
Here is the power steering pump pulley that has now been straightened.
Bolts for the water pump and other timing chain cover parts cleaned.
Dirty sump bolts

Power steering pump rebuilt ready for the pulley.
Cleaned timing chain cover.

More clean bolts.
Dirty blalancer.
Clean balancer.

Clean water pump.
Stamp on front of block from factory.
Ready for new timing chain.
The old timing chain cogs are still the original bakealight type.


Power steering pully installed.
New timing chain to install.
Timing chain removed.
Timing cover painted ready to go.



Timing chain, and cover, plus water pump installed.
Woops... I had an issue installing the sump and the front gasket was not in place correctly. So had to remove it and get a new gasket set.
This is the dirty bracket for the starter motor power cable.

All nice nice and clean again.

Rubber reinstalled and ready to go.

Sump reinstall attempt 2. All good to go.


Balancer and fuel pump installed
Steering to trans lock out link cleaned and ready to go.
Power steering box ready to go. Man this was a challenge to install when laying under the car as it is heavy!



Drag link cleaned and new steering arm parts ready to install
All back in and running. 


Now to get a front end alignment and install the new heater box.







The final piece to the AC puzzle

 The last push to finish the AC install. Now that all the engine bay work is done. The next step is to replace the heater box. Also, I have ...